Ozu Castle is the only castle keep in Japan you can book a night in. It stands above Ozu, a small town in Ehime on Shikoku, where the Hiji River loops through a valley people here call Garyu, the reclining dragon. The keep was dismantled in the Meiji period and rebuilt in 2004. Not in concrete, which is what most Japanese castles got, but in wood, worked out from surviving sketch maps, a carpenter's scale model and photographs taken in 1877. The joinery uses no metal nails. UNESCO listed that carpentry as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2020. Forty percent of the money came from Ozu residents. Overnight, the keep, the two original turrets, both Important Cultural Properties, the hill and the bath are closed to everyone but you, your butler and your chef. The arrival is staged. You are met at the gate, dressed in armour and walked in, and gagaku is performed under the floodlit tower. Dinner is reconstructed from the Kato family's records and served on local Tobeyaki ware. There is a nightcap in the moon-viewing turret. Then you sleep in the keep, on cypress. Breakfast is at Garyu Sanso, a villa down by the river listed in the Michelin Green Guide. The Edo and Meiji merchant streets in town are worth an hour afterwards.