Tokyo was once Edo, and the city has kept its past alive in two very different ways. In Asakusa, it lives on through people: the incense smoke at Senso-ji, Tokyo's oldest temple, the snack stalls of Nakamise shopping street, and the craft shops of a neighborhood that was rebuilt again and again after fire, earthquake, and war, yet never lost its character. In Marunouchi, it lives on through the land itself: ground that once held samurai estates became a military field, then Japan's first Western-style business district, and today the heart of its financial world. On this three-hour afternoon walk, an English-speaking guide connects the two with a ride on the Ginza Line, Asia's first subway, timed so you arrive at Tokyo Station's red-brick facade just as the evening lights come on. Two neighborhoods, one story — and a Tokyo most visitors walk right past.