It's 5:30 in the morning and the hall below is cold enough to see your breath. Rows of frozen tuna lie on the floor like silver logs. A bell rings, and an auctioneer starts a chant so fast it barely sounds like words.

That's the Toyosu tuna auction, held at Tokyo's main wholesale fish market. It replaced the famous Tsukiji auction in 2018, and it's about 25 minutes from Shimbashi by train.

At a glance

• Where: Toyosu Market, Kōtō Ward, Tokyo

• When: Visitor areas open about 5:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m.; the tuna auction runs roughly 5:30–6:30 a.m. Closed on market holidays (Sundays, public holidays and many Wednesdays); check the official market calendar

• Time needed: Two to three hours including breakfast

• Getting there: Yurikamome Line to Shijō-mae Station, connected to the market; about 25 minutes from Shimbashi

• Cost: Free entry to the visitor areas

• Booking: None for the second-floor visitor walkway; the Tuna Auction Observation Deck on the auction-floor level requires advance online application, with places decided by lottery.

Not Tsukiji: Toyosu

Tokyo's tuna auction moved from Tsukiji to Toyosu on October 11, 2018. Tsukiji now has only its outer market of shops and restaurants.

Toyosu was built with visitors in mind, but you can't just turn up and stand at the auction's dedicated viewing area. Anyone can walk in from about 5:00 a.m. and look down on the auction through the windows of the second-floor Visitor's Walkway. The closer Tuna Auction Observation Deck, on the auction-floor level behind glass, is open only to those who apply online in advance and win the lottery. Neither lets you onto the floor itself.

The chant, and what comes after

The auctioneer's chant is a rhythmic stream of prices and lot numbers. Buyers answer with hand signals, and lots close in seconds. It's part of the day's work, not a show.

By around 6:30 a.m. the auction is over. That's when the reward begins: sushi at counters inside the market buildings (restaurant hours vary; check each shop), eaten within hours of the fish arriving. There's no long-established outer market like Tsukiji's; the closest equivalent is Senkyaku Banrai, a separate visitor complex next to the market with food stalls and a footbath, which opened in February 2024.

Know before you go

• Check the calendar: The market closes on Sundays, public holidays and other market holidays (many Wednesdays). Check the official market calendar.

• Viewing rules change: The second-floor Visitor's Walkway needs no booking; the Tuna Auction Observation Deck needs advance application and a lottery win. Applications open the month before.

• It's cold: Wear layers and closed shoes.

• No flash: Flash is prohibited, and the viewing glass reflects badly. A lens hood or a hand cupped against the glass helps more than a better camera.

• Watch for trucks: Market trucks and carts move fast. Stay inside the marked visitor routes.

• Getting there early: Depending on where you start, the first Yurikamome trains may reach Shijō-mae only after the auction has begun; to see it from the start, consider a taxi or staying nearby.

FAQ

Q: Is there still a tuna auction at Tsukiji?
No. The tuna auction moved from Tsukiji to Toyosu Market on October 11, 2018. Tsukiji's outer market of shops and restaurants is still open.

Q: What time does the Toyosu tuna auction start?
The Toyosu tuna auction runs roughly 5:30–6:30 a.m. Visitor entry to the market opens at about 5:00 a.m. Confirm current times before you go.

Q: Do I need to book to see the Toyosu tuna auction?
Not to watch from the second-floor Visitor's Walkway. To watch the Toyosu tuna auction from the closer Tuna Auction Observation Deck, you must apply online in advance; places are decided by lottery.

Q: How do I get to Toyosu Market?
Take the Yurikamome Line to Shijō-mae Station, which connects directly to Toyosu Market. It's about 25 minutes from Shimbashi.

Q: When is Toyosu Market closed?
Toyosu Market closes on Sundays, public holidays and other market holidays, including many Wednesdays. Check the official market calendar before you go.

Q: Can I combine Toyosu and Tsukiji in one morning?
Yes. Watch the Toyosu tuna auction, then head to Tsukiji outer market, which is liveliest from about 8 to 11 a.m.

Q: Is the Toyosu tuna auction worth it with children?
It can be, for older children who can handle a pre-dawn start and a cold viewing area. The Toyosu tuna auction is brief and seen through glass, so treat the sushi breakfast inside Toyosu Market, or a stop at the Senkyaku Banrai visitor complex, as half the attraction.

Q: How can I see the Toyosu tuna auction without the early-morning hassle?
Plan the transfer and timing in advance. The Toyosu tuna auction starts before most trains run, and viewing rules change. We can arrange a private pickup for you, a guide who explains the auction, and a sushi breakfast reservation.

By the time Tokyo's commuters are on their way to work, the morning's tuna is already on its way to restaurants across the city. You've seen where it started.